Skip navigation. Skip user information. Posts: Level: 37 [? Level: 35 [? Posts: 3, Level: 49 [? Posts: 4, Level: 22 [? Level: 36 [? Level: 23 [? Garreth G. Level: 38 [? Remember me? You are not logged in. Login Register. Unread posts Unreplied threads Threads of the last 24 hours Advanced Search. Fortuner 4x4 Fans. Handbrake Adjustment. Skip user information PRA Intermediate. Monday, February 16tham. Is there anyone that can share the procedure for adjusting the handbrake of the Fortuner? Go to the top of the page Quote.
Skip user information Wave Intermediate. Monday, February 16thpm. Here are the steps I hope I describe it all properly Remove rear wheels - after you let the handbrake down Remove rear drums - you will need to get 2 long bolts to thread into the drum to force it off, do not use a screwdriver and hammer, this just bends and buckles things.
You need to apply the pressure evenly to get the drum off straight. Tighten one a few turns the the other and back to the first and so on and so forth Clean the inside of the drums and shoes with petrol and a paint brush to remove all dirt and grim. Slack the handbrake cable under the car where the 2 cables come into one, about half way next to the one chassis member cannot recall which side but you can see the cables joined with a metal rectangular box about 1cm2 Replace drums and adjust the shoes from behind the drum with a small to medium flat screwdriver through the top inspection oval hole covered with a rubber grommet until the drums drag slightly when turning them.
Tighten the "metal box" under the car until its lekker tight. Climb in car and get the desired amount of "clicks" you want, keep tightening the "little box" under the car until happy - I usually go for 3 clicks, then it lasts until the next service Go find a hill and apply hand brake and smile We are going to replace the mags on my brothers Tuna a little later, I will take a few pics of what and where for you.
Skip user information Jakes Sage. I thought there is a screw inside the car that you just turn with a screwdriver. I think Toyota will have to do mine. Nothing is forever Hahahahaha, while I'm servicing the car its part of the job and now I know what to do its quick. Also Toyota never lubricate the propshafts, the first time I did the job I used plenty of grease, now it takes just a little.
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What does the factory manual say? I don't have the body manual yet. This what everyone one else does? Does the parking brake adjust them properly? After changing some shoes the other night the ebrake does not stop the truck like it should.
I was going to tighten up the cable. What tricks have you learn to set them? I can getting the hang of adjusting the star finally.Return to Drive Train Components.
New Subscription Renew Subscription.Toyota hilux pickup Hand brake repair
Like a cartoon, was putting the boat in at a boat ramp and didnt reef on to the last possible click and off she went heading for the water after I got out of the car.
Have no faith on any steep hill. More so worried about the wife who doesn't have the strength to get those last clicks. I'm 6ft 1' and built like a brick shit house and I will probably end up ripping the lever out of its mounts. It has only done 30,km and hand brake was adjusted at last service but didnt fix.
I havn't been thru any muddy bog that would cause the problem.
Anyone else had the issue and got a resolution? I love hybrid cars - means more fuel for me. Yanking it to far up is only gonna make it worse! You should pull it up just as far as it needs 5 or so clicks then release foot brake to see if it holds. Although mine is all good now, i still do not rely on it on hills and always put it in gear and stop engine.
The 2wd has always had crap brakes and even though they have been serviced and particular attention paid to the hand brake there was no noticeable improvement. Its not just the modern one either the rear drum brake is notorious for being unreliable.
As to my experience for you newer Lux owners Id hammer the dealership. My rear shoes went at 30 ks, most of that wear was not via the handbrake as it hardly ever worked. I have had my hand brake adjusted gone through a deep puddle and lost complete use of it. Its not just the rear Ive done my front pads in at and had to replace the rotars. Water, dirt anything related to that destroys the pads. Best bet is have a search on here there is instructions on how to do it.
Emarrasing I know but we are all victims. Kyle Never, under any circumstances, take a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night.Join our Hilux Forum, click here. Many guys struggle with the brakes on their Hiluxes especially the SFA models.
Many times the problem is to do with the rear brakes. One of the major problems is that the mechanism in the rear drums is dirty or rusted due to a lot of mud and water driving. This article does not cover the servicing of these drums but goes beyond to another problem that guys experience which actually has a fairly simple fix, if only people knew about it.
The aim of this valve is to adjust the pressure which is applied to the rear brakes in relation to the amount of weight that is loaded onto the vehicle. On a new vehicle, this valve works fairly well, but on older vehicles with sagging suspension or on vehicles with suspension lifts and modifications, the suspension geometry falls outside the normal working parameters of this valve.
Then it needs to be adjusted or modified to work. The Service Manual shows a fairly complicated way of setting this valve using fancy pressure gauges that must be attached to the front and rear brakes and pressures must be measured and this valve be adjusted to get the pressure ratio to within specifications. After lifting my rear suspension by replacing rear leaf blades and lengthening the shackles, I realised that my rear brakes were not working anymore.
I tried adjusting this valve but could not get it to work again so I decided to lengthen the Shackle no 2 with about the same amount of suspension lift I gained. In the photograph below I extended the shckle by welding piece of round bar into it.
Another way to extend the shackle is by using a "long nut". See the next two photographs:. The picture below shows Frik and his son's modification:. Afterwards I saw that you could also move the valve itself to help with the adjustment, but I doubt that it would have been enough.
After this lengthening exercise, I could then adjust the length of Shackle no 2 until my rear wheels were braking but not locking up too quickly on Gravel or wet Tarmac.
Add to: Add to Delicious. See the next two photographs: The picture below shows Frik and his son's modification: Afterwards I saw that you could also move the valve itself to help with the adjustment, but I doubt that it would have been enough.Original topic, click here - By LeeBoy.
What is the correct way to adjust rear brake shoes?
I read "disfunctional hand brake" and actually had to remove my brake drum to refresh my memory as to what it looks like with all those cables, springs and levers. Its quite simple but difficult to explain, here goes.
Just in case, pull the hand brake up and look above the clutch lever and spray Q20 or the likes into the slot where the HB goes through the fire wall. The little tag that opperates the HB light sticks out of this slot. Repeat this after an hour until you see oil seeping out from the rubber which protects the cable under the SFA.
Jack up a wheel and if you look behind the brake drum backing plate there is a lever with an ajustable stopper HB cable is attached to this lever. With the HB released, loosen the hand brake cable until the lever stopper touchers the backing plate this should happen on both sides. Now on the raised wheel side through the slot at the bottom of the backing plate adjust the self adjuster until the brake shoes are just touching the drum turn wheel while adjusting.
On same side remove the wheel and drum and just below the hydraulic cylinder there is a flat bar with a "square" spring around one end, this is "pushed" by the HB lever which is fixed to one brake shoe against the other brake shoe.
After many years of use this bar wears shorter which results in those levers sticking out of the backing plate being adjusted closer to the rear spring blade and eventually hitting the blades.
The more they move out the less leverage they have. Soall you have to do is remove the flat bar and weld and grind the ends to make it longer. I don't know the exact length but there should be a little play 2mm. When my HB is applied, there is a 10 mm gap between the backing plate and lever stopper and it works like a bomb.
I hope someone will make sence of this and try it, its easy. How to fix your SFA Hilux's Hand Brake Original topic, click here - By LeeBoy I read "disfunctional hand brake" and actually had to remove my brake drum to refresh my memory as to what it looks like with all those cables, springs and levers.For the most part, the parking brakes on your vehicle will not require adjustment, as most parking brake systems come equipped with a self-adjusting mechanism.
However, after years of service, a manual adjustment may be necessary. Most systems include a control cable or rod, an equalizer bar, application cables or rods, adjusting mechanism, and a pedal or lever.
Start the engine and depress the brake pedal several times to fully position the brake shoes in the brake drum. Then turn off the engine. Jack up the rear of the vehicle using a floor jack until the tires clear the ground, then support the vehicle on two jack stands and chock the front wheels. Push the parking brake three notches. Listen for the three clicks as you step on the parking brake pedal or pull the brake lever on the center console. Locate the parking brake equalizer bar or yoke around the middle section of the underside of the vehicle.
The equalizer yoke holds the two brake cables that connect to the rear tire brakes. Loosen the locknut on the equalizer yoke using a wrench. On some models, the equalizer bar does not have this locknut; instead, each brake cable is provided with a turnbuckle at each end next to the equalizer bar. Turn the adjusting nut with a wrench or the turnbuckles with your hand or a pair of slip joint pliers to get rid of the excess slack on the brake cable.
Rotate both rear tires with your hands. You should feel the brake shoes slightly drag against the brake drum. If not, keep adjusting the nut or turnbuckles as described in the above step. Then tighten the locknut and go to the Parking Brake Check section. Remove the console trim that covers the parking brake lever. Consult your owner's manual for the proper procedure for your particular vehicle model.
Tighten the adjusting nut or nuts at the base of the hand lever using a ratchet and deep socket to get rid of the excess slack on the brake cable.
Rotate the rear tires with your hands. You should feel a very slight drag of the brake shoes against the brake drum. Tighten the adjusting nut or nuts a little at a time, if necessary, and keep checking the rear tires for a slight drag. Release the parking brake pedal or lever and apply the parking brakes.
The pedal or lever should not travel too far before the parking brake is properly engaged. If it does, readjust the parking brake. Park your vehicle on a slope and apply the parking brakes. The parking brake pedal or lever should not travel too far to properly hold the vehicle in place. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Step 1 Start the engine and depress the brake pedal several times to fully position the brake shoes in the brake drum.
Step 2 Jack up the rear of the vehicle using a floor jack until the tires clear the ground, then support the vehicle on two jack stands and chock the front wheels. Step 1 Locate the parking brake equalizer bar or yoke around the middle section of the underside of the vehicle. Step 2 Loosen the locknut on the equalizer yoke using a wrench. Step 3 Turn the adjusting nut with a wrench or the turnbuckles with your hand or a pair of slip joint pliers to get rid of the excess slack on the brake cable.If you have tightened the brake shoes so that there is no excess travel before they come on, yet the handbrake lever still pulls up a long way, the cable has probably stretched and must be adjusted.
There are many types of adjuster, but they all have the same effect that of shortening or lengthening the cable. Some are inside the car, at the base of the handbrake lever. Most, however, are underneath the car - and are probably dirty and rusty.
Whenever you work under the car, always put it on firm supports such as axle stands. Chock the wheels remaining on the ground. About two hours before you plan to do the job, squirt penetrating oil on to all the nuts and screw threads you will unscrew. This gives the oil time to free any seized parts.
Also lubricate with engine oil all the pivots and linkages that are operated when the handbrake is applied - they tend to seize due to road dirt, grit and corrosion. Make sure that the cable or rods move freely in their covering sleeves or gaiters. Raise the rear wheels clear of the ground and support them on axle stands.
Chock the front wheels and fully release the handbrake. The adjusters are inside the car, at the lower end of the handbrake lever. Pull away the covering or carpeting. The threaded end of each cable has one or two nuts. If there are two, grip each with a spanner and screw them apart, freeing the locknut.
Hold the lower end of one rod with a pair of pliers to stop it turning, or fit a screwdriver into the front end of the rod if that is slotted.
Turn the lower nut clockwise down the thread, drawing the rod forward. Stop turning when the handbrake lever can be pulled up only three to five 'clicks'. Adjust the other rod by the same amount.
Pull the handbrake lever 'on' until slight resistance is felt at the lever; then try turning each rear wheel. Each should turn with equal resistance. If they do not, tighten the cable on the slacker side until both feel equal.
Tighten the locknuts. Check that, with the handbrake released, both wheels turn freely. If not, ease back the adjustment and recheck. Raise the rear wheels clear of the ground, and support them on axle stands. Chock the front wheels. Exact details of the adjuster vary considerably from car to car, but there is probably a pair of nuts on the adjuster rod - one an adjuster nut on a screwed sleeve, the other a locknut to hold it firmly.
Loosen the locknut and screw it back three or four threads. Turn the adjuster nut clockwise until the raised wheel can be turned only with firm hand force.
Apply the handbrake and check that the wheels do not bind when it is released. If they do, readjust. Tighten the locknut.